swish, swish, swish,
water swirling, grabbing, pulling.
My legs are tired from hopping over the wave break as it flows in to shore.
I venture out as a huge swell hits me in the middle of my body, knocking me back.
I let myself fall back in to it.
I then run out in to the beach and grab a boogie board.
It drags behind me as i run twards the water.
This is my last run of the day.
water boils and turns behind me and I turn, ready to catch it
I push off but unfortunately to late.
I ride for a foot or so and then stop, before i could get up, the water coats my face with its thick, salty wettness.
What a fun California day...
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